![]() The OKW range of plastic enclosures covers many different applications, for example handheld enclosures, wall mount enclosures, flush mounting / DIN rail enclosures, desktop enclosures, table top enclosures, instrument enclosures, standard mounting rail enclosures etc. Here are the driver manufacturer guides as per LDSG, as if you hadnt already seen them ! :Īccuton ACI Adire Alcone Apex Jr.Advanced plastic enclosures for housing all types of electronics equipment Im getting there, thanks for being patient ! maybe two 12" (10" ?)drivers ? Maybe that would give me better results, or perhaps that's what you mean by a transformed sealed box ? I cant readily see a reference to it in Dickason, but it must be there ? Sorry - Im learning still !Īfter pondering the collective advice, Im now contemplating a sealed box push/pull configuration using. In my novice mode, Im not sure what you mean by Transformed box. The better drivers mentioned below arent listed in LDSG, and without any other reference to them could you suggest specifically which ones, or possibly some good alternates from LDSG that I can try to source ? There may well be a wealth of choices out there, but for a novice that's actually worse unless there are some specific recommendations (preferably that can be easily sourced - ie in Australia) ! Hence the Vifa ones, no other reason (so fairly random really). Again I got the "recommendation" (well suggestion) for the Vifa drivers specifically from the LDSG guidelines, and then by finding drivers which I can easily source in Australia (predominantly Vifa and Scanspeak as far as I can tell). I would certainly rather try to build a decent subwoofer, so a good driver is definately a criteria. What that means in real terms I dont know - Im just a beginner !īut I like the idea of bigger and less expensive ? ![]() On the driver size, Id stuck to 12" because my only source of practical guidelines was the LDSG pages which said "you reach a point of diminishing returns once you get much past 12". So, point taken on crossing over at 100Hz. Thankyou very much for both of your replies. ![]() Am I on the right track here, or should I amend the design ?Īny help/advice/suggestions much appreciated My problem is really that Ive never heard the results of theory to know if the above design is even close to achieving what I want. If not, how do I change my design before I shell out my cash !! ? If I was crossing over at 80Hz, I wouldnt have much range to play with, surely ? Is this going to meet my objectives of a significantly deeper and better bass ? That cant be right surely, or do I misunderstand what its telling me ?į3 is 53Hz, which seems quite high to me. ![]() Max power input for linear operation is 12.5W. Ive downloaded Unibox 4v04 and loaded up the correct driver from the database.įor a closed box design Qtc of 0.707, it suggests a 40L box. I plan to drive it with a Rod Elliott 300W sub amp and active crossover.įrom reading the forums, the Vifa PL22WR-09/08 8" woofer or PL26WR-09-08 10" seem to be reasonable choices amongst many possibilities. I plan to cross it over at around 150Hz to take the load off my main speakers and hopefully improve and deepen the bass. I want my first DIY loudspeaker to be a reasonable success ! I want to learn the principles and practicalities of building speakers so I can move on to replace my main speakers. I want to improve and supplement the bass response of my current HiFi (not home theatre) system, by adding a subwoofer. ![]() Im just a learner, and I cant see the specific answer to what I need in the forum, although there are severla posts on the use of Unibox - they dont help me with the specifics I need, probably because Im talking real basic stuff to begin with.Ĭould someone suggest a link, or help me out with some suggestions please ? ![]()
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